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Sighting in Your Optic

Sighting in your Optic

 

Now it’s time to shoot. I’m pretty good at bore sighting, and occasionally, I get it right on… but it is not always perfect, and neither are collimators nor laser bore sighters. So, I like to start with our 1” grid target at 50 yards. For a lever-action, your better off starting at 25 yards with a decent size target. They say a 25-yard zero will be close to a 100 yard zero, but that’s not the case. It depends on the cartridge and the scopes height above bore, a perfect zero at 25 yards will be high at 100 yards.

Using our grid target, say your first impact at 50 yards is 2” high and 3” right you need to adjust 16 clicks down and 24 clicks left with a ¼ MOA scope adjustment.

Going back to 100 yards your adjustments will be 4 clicks per inch. Take 3 shots and adjust accordingly. Do not adjust after every shot. You’ll drive yourself mad. Let your barrel cool down a bit and shoot. You should be bang on.

Depending how far up that horseshoe is you might get the rifle “pretty close” in three or four shots. Sometimes it takes quite a few more! Its not uncommon to go back and forth a bit to get it right. That’s perfectly OK, but you must, take your time and make sure that barrel doesn’t heat up. A hot barrel will change your point of impact. Once you feel you’re there, let the barrel cool down and then check again. Remember a 3 shot group inside 1” is pretty good for a over the counter rifle.

Keep in mind a truly “cold bore” shot is always lower than a barrel that’s been warmed up. This is particularly important for a hunting rifle.

Many times, if a rifle is not shooting as good as it should its usually said the optic is not working properly. In my experience it mostly comes down to shooter error or improper mounting issues. Sometimes it comes down to as simple as choosing an ammo for your rifle. Its not as simple as picking a bullet weight and shoot sub-moa. For instance, a .308 with a 1-12 twist will not stabilize a heavier 180gr. Bullet. For that a 1-10 twist is needed. Faster twist is needed for heavier bullet weights. Also, you may find that some ammo just don’t shoot well in you’re rifle and others do. It comes down to the bullet ogive, velocity, and barrel harmonics to name a few.

Some other common mistakes to look out for are over tightened rings. This will place pressure on the erector tube system and will not allow for proper adjustments.

An inadequate shooting rest can cause shot placement to change unwillingly.

Even improper shooting technique i.e. Bad Trigger pull or anticipating the shot and flinching. This usually shows up as shot placements low and to the right with right-handed shooters and opposite for lefties.

As mentioned before after shooting for some time with a lite barrel your grouping can grow because the barrel is hot.

If you have a new rifle, you’ll notice after time your grouping will get smaller and or more consistent. This is due to the copper following and carbon build up. Later, you’ll find your groupings will grow and or be less consistent. Tho copper fowling helps with consistency to much will cause accuracy issues. Using a copper remover such as butches bore shine will do the trick and get you back on target.

Keeping an eye out for these simple yet common mistakes will greatly help with zeroing you rifle accurately and cost efficiently.

From everyone here at Scorpion Outdoor Happy shooting. If you have any question, please feel free to reach out and contact us via social media or call the office.

Cheers

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